K

essays written by K

Month: April 2022 (page 1 of 1)

Dastard—in Uyuni: part2

Sunset in Uyuni Salt Flats

The volcanos reflected in the lake. We started to take the photos of the view, even though I was not in a mood to―it was disgusting the way that bitch made an allusion to the nasty thing about me. Of corse, there is no one to be able to point out her insolence.

While I managed to disguise my agitation, the driver silently pointed in the direction of the sun that started to touch the horizon. I gazed at the orange shape glowing and inflating as if it provoked me to anger. The sun was now sinking into the ground and the sky had become deep blue. I had been extremely busy taking photos, walking back and forth. Finally the sky lost the color―purple layer loomed above the volcanos.

After sunset, as we huddled round the jeep, the driver said, “The starlight and the sunrise, more beautiful.” “Really?” said the plump young woman with curly, black hair. “Well then, let’s go, let’s go, see starlight,” another plump woman with brown hair was elated who might had yelled at me. What are they talking about? I was going to go to La Paz tonight.

“Oh, that sounds good,” the small man said, putting his tripod in his backpack, and the young man agreed with them, too. Are they serious? I felt so restless. 

“What do you think about that?” the plump woman with brown hair asked the newlyweds. I was worried that they would be talked into it, looking at them. The groom got closer to the bride and said, “Is that going to be a problem?” She flinched. She moved away from him a little, considering this for a moment and I studied her troubled face―she glanced at the others, especially the females, as though to care what they would think. “That’s okay,” she said, looking down.

“I have plan,” the plump woman with brown hair said loudly. I was outsider, but spoke out. “I’m sorry. I’m going to La Paz tonight … If the driver drove me alone to the station, no problem, but could leave you behind here.” I made myself heard them. There was no response―they had kept their face blunt.

They could not tolerate my refusal of the photos and it would have been perfectly controversial. To a loner, being among the Japanese who values harmony, not individual freedom, was encumbrance. “Of corse,”I should have said, because I could sense many eyes despised me.

The plump woman approached the driver. “I want to see it. I want to, please.” The driver was overwhelmed with her and said nothing. Then she went on, “Is there any good way? Since we’ve come all the way from Japan, we should stay far longer. Don’t you think?”she said in Japanese. He looked away from her and kept silence; the young man begun to translate her words into Spanish for him. “What did he say? What did he say?”she exited.

“Go back alone,” another plump woman said from where I could not see her. The bitch was behind the trunk of the jeep. On the other side of the jeep, there were the newlyweds alone. They stood close to each other with their backs on its windows and kept to themselves. I did not know what I was supposed to do anymore―it was impossible to slip out of the center of the lake.

Tired of looking at the conversation between the young man and the driver, the plump woman with brown hair started to talk with another plump woman, and the small man, despite being mature enough, pretended not to notice anything around him, groping in his backpack for something.

“Did your camera manage to take good photos?” the plump woman with brown hair asked him abruptly. He dug out his camera from his backpack and checked the photos in no time. “Yes, yes, of course. Good, very good,” he forced a smile, as if to humor her. Is he a moron? He was like her henchman.

Unlike the others, the young man turned up in front of me. “Can’t something be done?” he asked. I thought he was the closest to a decent person. “No, I have to go back. I reserved the ticket for La Paz already, That’s why I chose ’1day tour,’ ” I went on. “I’ve said nothing wrong, and the driver is here on business. He’ll have to go back to his office.”

There was an awkward moment, before him, being neither one nor the other. “Gals are still children. You should tolerate,” he said. Meanwhile, the plump woman with brown hair was looking at us. “Is this bastard still complaining?” she said, not looking at me and left. The way she had cursed me indirectly had been irritating me. If I could, I would have put her head into the salt.

The young man, wanting to fit in with the females, turned around and walked toward them. He started joking and laughing with them as if nothing happened; the plump woman with curly, black hair slapped his back. I sighed and got into the jeep.

*

In the jeep, the plump young women sulked for so long. They obviously took the lead, followed by the others, as if to be obedient to authority. No wonder that the plump women’s behavior―egotism, arrogance, and insensitivity―was justified.

On the other hand, I felt certain that the newlyweds had been standoffish. If I tried to talk to the groom, my effort would be painful. I knew well enough from past experience that if you were made outcast, nobody would talk to you, like you were not here.

I was not going to say―“I’m so sorry. It’s my fault. For troubling you”―with such banal expression courtesy. If they thought I disturbed peace, that was okay. No matter how much they grumbled about me, I was right. I am used to being hated. Unlike these assholes, it is just that I have my own opinion. 

“Why don’t we share photos with everyone?” a plump young woman said in a soft, coaxing voice, trying to strike a chord with the others. I was certain this kind of woman was in fragile mind―the last thing she wanted to do was that the others left her.

“Our hotel is close to yours. Which lobby do you think is better? Somewhere cozy,” a plump young woman said to the two men, both of whom seemed to hesitate for a second or two. Once they had gotten along with the plump young women, it was hard to ditch them, so I felt contempt and pity.

We drove through the darkness. The driver said, “You couple, almost there.” I turned in the front passenger seat. The newlyweds, making themselves agreeable, bade farewell to the others. “I’ll send you the photos later,” the plump woman with brown hair smiled, showing off how close she was with them.

“Thank you for taking photos for me.” I said to the groom, but being busy bowing to the others had enabled him to ignore me. After stepping down off the jeep, the newlyweds waved their hand toward the backseat.

There was silence behind me that indicated the tenuous relationship between the newlyweds and the others had ended, but not sadness prevailed, rather as though they had done their stint. They started to mutter: “I’m hungry,” “I’m sleepy,” “My makeup came off.” The topic of the newlyweds would no longer come up.

The driver brought the jeep to a halt in front of the bus for La Paz. I jumped out of it, to extricate myself from the Japanese, who only cared about themselves. I raised the trunk lid and snatched up my backpack. In the jeep, there were four forlorn figures and silence reigned once again. I stared at their backs, wanting to shout abuse at the “cowards.” Instead, I confined them in what they called harmony, which allowed them to do so at me, and walked off toward the bus.

When I boarded the bus, the foreigner crowded the aisle. I made my way through passengers and sinked into my seat near the rear. I was too tired to think about anything. 

“It was good? Uyuni,” asked the blonde white woman next to me a few minute later. “Yes, yes, of corse,” I said, repeating a phrase I had heard the small man use on the plump woman with brown hair. “You doesn’t look like that.” Startled, I saw the slender woman turning to me; she appeared more appealing than when I had met her.

Dastard—in Uyuni: part1

Uyuni Salt Flats

April 2017

It was in the early morning and I was out of breath―3700m above sea level. The scene looked as if the snow settled lightly on the road. As I staggered along Av. Ferroviária of a lot of Uyuni tour offices, a local woman solicited me to join the tour; I could not afford to choose a tour company, with a headache and nausea that would not go away. I consented and followed her.

She opened the door encircled by messages on sheets of paper that flapped in the wind, most of which were written in Japanese―I was encircled by the Japanese messages on the numerous papers all aver the walls.

As I did the procedure, “Uyuni Salt Flats Tour 1 day + Sunset,” I noticed a young man, around twenty, sitting on the couch looking down. Maybe Japanese. Then I heard the door open and turned back. Two plump young women in the pink jackets stuck together. Japanese. They were both in her early twenties and looked exactly alike―the same height, long hair and shorts on leggings. The young man looked up, pleased to see the new women in front of him. They were chatting and greeting one another.

I walked right past the plump young women and out of the office. It was a little cold. Noticing there was a cafe nearby, I stepped inside. I could sense I enter a quite different atmosphere at the sight of Westerners having breakfast, who would go to the Salt Flats. I flopped into a green plastic chair at empty table and for a while caught my breath. At the far end, I could see the map and postcards of Uyuni on the cream-colored walls. And I was thinking about where to stay in La Paz tomorrow over fruit juice and mellow music.

When I came back to the office, I found a new small man in his late thirties mingled with them. They seemed to establish a friendship group. It was none of my business. I was a loner and preferred to get involved with foreigners who accepted various values, but this tour would be for Japanese.

We got into the jeep, I sat in the front passenger seat and the driver started the engine. We edged forwards on the rutted road like melted snow.  In the back seat, there was an attempt to strengthen a sense of Japanese unity: “So do I,” “I think so,” “I agree,” “You’re right,” “I’m with you,” and so on.

The small man, who was such a lame, said, “I’m a programmer and engineer.” It was a kind of boasting. “That sounds great,” exclaimed both young women, who must like players, feigning their emotions.

“Look, they’re Korean, unmistakably,” one of the young women said in a harsher tone, feeling proud of being Japanese. I glanced out at three men standing side by side. “Judging from their hairstyles.” she said, looking down at them. They had straight bangs of voluminous black hair. I felt somewhat uncomfortable with her words―a haughty demeanor, as many Japanese have, as though they are an extraordinary race.

On the way, the jeep came to a halt in front of the hotel. And then a couple emerged out of there and rode in. “Nice to meet you,” they said, bowing toward us and the man sat in the seat behind me. There followed a few words of welcome. They were newlyweds―the groom looked gentle and sincere; the bride was plain either in modesty or shame. Both young women, who tried to look so good, had turned their own language into something a little more formal.

There appeared to some interaction between Japanese. I was isolated in the front seat, not talking to anyone except the driver, who was never much of a talker. But only the groom paid a little attention to me, so I occasionally looked back, to make small talk; the bride, smiling, nodded along with him, to adapt her husband’s way.

On the way, we all were having lunch around a table at the restaurant. I felt myself exchanging a word or two―either “excuse me” or “thank you”―with all of them, simply to move plates or pour water into glasses. I did not have appetite, not only because I had altitude sickness, perhaps because I was with “the Japanese,” which made me feel more stifling.

As I was idling around the restaurant, I noticed someone speaking to me. “Hey, I saw you at Machu Picchu. You were hiking along the rail,” said a woman with long black hair behind her ears. She looked slender. “I got caught. Machu Picchu and Uyuni are the regular tourist spots. But what a coincidence.” “Yeah,” she widened her eyes. “We might happen to meet somewhere.” “I think so,” she laughed, disappearing; I felt the human warmth.

The jeep with splashes continued to run on the salt reflecting a ray of sunlight. Arriving at the small island in the center of Uyuni lake, Isla Incahuasi, we saw directly a lot of cactuses. They would hike in two groups: the two young women and the young man and the small man, and the newlyweds. Of corse I was going to do alone.

I ascended the stairway to the top of the island, where the newlyweds hold hands and looked happy―I became distance from them so as not to intrude on them. As I overlooked a lot of cactuses, they suddenly came right up to me. “I’ll take photos for you,” he was about to reach out my phone. “Sorry for the trouble,” I said. Then we enjoyed taking photos of one another. “I could take your photos anytime, so please, feel free to talk to me,” he said in a calm tone. “Thank you. That’s very thoughtful of you.”

As I had descended the steeply slope, I encountered the young man climbing up. He told me that the departure time got closer and pointed to the jeep far below. It was he who had translated what the driver had said in Spanish into Japanese. He was a good man and knew a lot about the world; I was curious as to how he did his business in Patagonia.

In the lake, we had driven to the certain point to see sunset. I could no longer see anything but the salt carpet with splashes out of the wheels. When we got there, the sky was clear. There was white after white all the way to the volcanos.

I walked on the salt for a while, squatted and touched the salt. “Why don’t we taking trick photos?” The groom said softly, the bride smiled a little, and I was glad I had a chance to take perspective photos―I stood in front and raised my arm,  palm upward, he posed far back and she took my photos: I manipulated a dwarf on my palm.

“Excuse me. Would you please join us?” a small man spoked to me for the first time. “We will have to make the poses together.” I did not want to waste my valuable time. I had never seen such a sight in my life. I wanted to sense the mystery of nature to my heart’s content. “I’m afraid I can’t. I don’t like having my photo taken.” I made an excuse. Not having anticipated that I said this, he took a little back and said nothing else.

I tried jogging on the lake. I felt good, so I ran as fast as I could. The huge void and cool air engulfed me―turning back, I could see them in the distance, posing for the camera on the tripod and after a moment, I stopped with my back to them. I raised my arms above my head, inhaling deeply; my heart filled with happiness. Suddenly I heard an exclamation, designed to be in a scarcely audible voice.

“It’s insane, that jerk. He must join us, or else get lost!”