Category: Uncategorized (page 1 of 5)

October 1,2023

The bus moved off in the mid-afternoon. It takes about one day from Windhoek to Cape Town. The bus of Intercape had two levels. I wished I could have booked the seat in front, where you can enjoy a constant succession of great landscapes.

The seat was more comfortable than any bus in Africa. The trouble was that the plump woman next to me had stretched her legs out onto my leg space. She sang along to Youtube videos, occasionally talking on her phone with a man. I could say nothing because I had recalled a large woman, big of buttock, big of beast, powerful and sure. This creature placed her sweaty forearm on that of mine; she meant no harm at all. In fact, had I opened my mouth, I might have driven her into a frenzy.

However, thanks to this plump woman, I could listen to music without earphones, not following Japanese manners. As I had great time, someone patted me on the shoulder. I turned and saw a young Spanish woman sitting across the aisle from me. “Tru, tru. Tru, tru,” she said, beating her ear. I was a little annoyed. Tru, tru? After a moment, she fell asleep on her boyfriend’s chest.

When the night fell, I was asleep. “We’ll soon get to the border, prepare,” the driver announced. It was hard to get up in the small hours. There was a dead silence at the border. I stood at the end of line behind the Spanish couple, a young blond woman in Patagonia trainer and a well-built man. I knew that some white women hold aloof from Asian men, so I kept a distance, as if there was none.

After the inspection, all the passengers, dozens of them, lined up with their luggage. The security staff opened them and checked each item one by one. When all was finished, a staff gave out a yell. At that moment, the passengers burst into excited applause, exchanging the words. It was the same way everyone clapped their hands when Qatar Airways landed safety.

After coming back to the bus, I slept lightly, only to awaken when the starter whirred and caught, and whirred again. The engine caught and died, and the bus had stopped for long. In any case, there was nothing to worry about, for I had enough food and drink. I had remembered and believed that every one said Intercape is good.

Not wanting to think about anything, I tried to sleep. Fuck. There she goes again. In the darkness, the plump woman started talking on her phone. The Spanish woman was awake and glancing at her. In the seat in front of her, kids were playing a game on their tablets, suddenly full of excitement. Having stared at anything, she covered her ears with her hands, and without saying a word flung herself into her boyfriend’s arms. I disgusted her, throughly disgusted. Perhaps it was cowardice. I glared at her and was about to say: “It’s noisy around us. I wished you would shut them out. But you looked the other way because you’re timid. You looked down on me. You know I’m alone.” Instead, I gestured around with my forefinger. “Silence.”

I awoke to the light from between the curtains. Half of the passenger had vanished, and I heard a female voice: “Splendid view. The mountains are beautiful.” I made my way down the aisle and stepped down off the bus. The air felt refreshing after the stuffiness of the bus. I saw the sun rising on the top of the rocky mountains, and the thought struck me that I had begun to stress out needlessly. The bus was parked alone in the large parking lot. There was no one at the border except us passengers. Some people were taking photos of their families as if there was a famous tourist spot.

I strolled about the parking lot, then set off in search of the restroom. After five minutes of walking on a boardwalk, I entered a hut. The smell of pine wood was good. I turned the water and held my finger in the stream. I washed my face, and then brushed my teeth. Just as I felt better, I heard a voice from outside. “Sir, hurry. The bus will leave soon,” said a small janitor.

I dashed away, anxious that I might be left behind. A shoulder bag slung over me, so I could not as fast as usual. After a while, in the distance I could see the bus starting its engine. When I boarded the bus, the bus driver bellowed something over his shoulder and started to move. I hurried down the bus, sank into my seat and gave a sigh.

The driver drove slowly and carefully through the rocky mountains as though the driver feared to go on. Since we entered South Africa, the landscape changed dramatically—beautiful, rugged mountains, and bordered plains. Not only did the mountain create a cosy atmosphere inside the bus, it provided me that I was not expected to question or to think.

At noon the bus pulled up at the large gas station. Outside I had a sweeping view over the surrounding countryside, palm trees dotted. The sun was warm and bright. There were a SUPERSPAR and a Nissan dealership nearby. When I came back to the bus, only a few people were inside. I noticed a　blanket, a fancy bag, snacks, and drinks on my seat. I picked up the things instantly, throwing them next to my seat and I sat down and spread my legs lest she occupies my space.

I had been waiting for the bus to leave while the plump woman ate fried chicken. I wished to reach Cape Town as soon as possible; it is dangerous to walk alone at night. Then I noticed that people were passing things and exchanging smirks. I moved forward in my seat to get a better look. A young Spanish woman, carrying big bags, came down the aisle handing out hamburgers, fries, and drinks. I started flashing back to a time I was in the group at the hostel. The young white woman had handed out candy one by one and she had come to me last. She asked, “Do you want?” and reluctantly put it beside me, as if to feed a dog. The bus driver turned back and yelled, “Everything is okay?” “Yes,” the passengers laughed in unison.

The plump woman ate everything, painted herself thick, and started to talk on her phone with a man. I saw overweight people as lazy, but I did not comprehend what “large woman” meant in the world. I had eaten only one hamburger slowly.

The sky grew darker when we arrived at Cape Town. The passengers were getting up from their seats, so I stood up and put on my backpack. They had now started to disembark, and more people pushed past me. I involuntarily turned to the plump woman.

“See you.”

“Sorry for the inconvenience,” she said. “See you again.”

The skyscraper lofting in the sky. I saw the back of the Spanish couple flirting around the bus. Bye-bye. I started to walk as fast as I could, gazing thoughtfully along the darkened street. It was about a mile to my hostel. After a few minutes I could see across the little square a family of travelers. I casually got closer as if to melt into them, but they were just loitering and taking photographs.

I saw only a darkness in the streets. Iron gates were closed, the silence ominous, and one police car was parked nearby. The guys wandered around like ghosts. Whenever I passed by one, he looked like a kind of murderer in my monstrous delusion. At the corner, some guys hanging out whistled at me, whereas the others walked lightly across the road. Anyway I had been maintaining a steady trot.

I had come out onto the heart of Long Street. The tall office buildings shining along the street. In the distance, red and green neon flickered. I continued to walk, looking here and looking there, and noticing grocery shops were alive; in contrast, bars and nightclubs cast shadows, their music blaring from inside. The guys were milled about freely. And, some facades were adorned with unique and intriguing artwork. I was not expecting it, and it was amazing.

When I got in the hostel, there were several backpackers at the reception, and among them was the young English man I had seen on the bus. He had a beauty with blond hair and seemed to be well brought up. I then recalled the immigration process—and it struck me it would be a good opportunity to ask him why he is going to Mozambique alone. It is chaotic but interesting. The moment he spotted me, he turned to the owner. “I know him—on the same bus from Windhoek,” and ascended the stairs.

I was lounging around at the hostel the way I always do. The balcony was reasonably spacious, with several tables where guests could chill out. Absorbed in the PC was that English man, whose face was somewhat stern, and he seemed like aloofness, so I looked past him into the underworld.

The next morning when I went out of the hostel, the town had begun to come to life. A stocky woman was walking around eating bread. In front of the nightclub, a man raked the sidewalk and put the garbage in the can. I wandered down Long Street past shops, confectioners and bakeries, then past a pleasant-looking café. Its customers seemed to be locals, older people who were unwinding over a coffee and newspaper. I felt good walking in the fresh air and sunshine, which allowed me quickly to forget whatever scene I had seen yesterday.

Table Mountain was sometimes visible, but the tall buildings often blocked my view. By the time I walked around the foothills of the mountain, I had passed joggers and cyclists. There was a long line of tourists at the cableway station. I ignored them and I started to climb the path that zigzagged steeply; the scenery was diversified. As I contemplated the little stream on the flat rocks—a good reposeful sound— woman overtook me briskly. The next thing I knew, I managed to keep up with her, following thirty feet behind. She continued to go up at a steady pace; exuding something of indisputable beauty with pride and confidence.

The path grew ever steeper and steeper, and as it did the rocks grew larger. After the last arduous part, I walked to the cliff’s edge, the scenery unfolding before me. I thought my father would appreciate this view even more than I do. However, as I saw many travelers on the summit, my enthusiasm gradually cooled. Feeling extremely hungry, I entered a fast-food restaurant that was crowded. I sat alone at a table, wrapped in the merry hubbub. I ate a hamburger and drank a beer thirstily—goodbye—and in no time I stood up. I can not afford to dawdle in the generality of people.

September 27, 2023

The scenery was monotonous from Maun to Charles hill. A straight road go on endlessly, although you can see the animals from the windows. Safari are popular among tourists, but I did not go. I never do what ordinary people do. Buitepos Border had long queues of trucks. The sun was hot, and no wind stirred sand. It was the first time I had ever hitchhiked. The driver was so good and kind, that I did no worrying until I arrived at Gobabis.

Gobabis was a stop-over. A few supermarkets here and there. This is no longer Ethiopia or Tanzania or Malawi. I loved Ethiopian coffee a woman poured in front of a corrugated iron shack, which warmed my heart.  I loved street food, the simple potato-egg omelette (Chipsi mayai) popular in Tanzania. And nice enough pubs, dimly lit old pubs, where the locals welcomed me. All of that was very nostalgic. I walked on and on toward the guest house, following footsteps in the sand. The concrete road shone like a mirror under the sun. SUVs passed on and left emptiness behind.

Namibia night was cold, but hot coffee compensated for that. The private room was sweet and comfortable; Netflix or Youtube were available on TV. There was no need to be stoic. However, idleness was a sin, and watching TV, which was laziness to me. I felt that people having a good time were wide open to mere mediocrity. Ordinary people go to tourist attractions, eat good food, and stay in hotels. When it is finished, they settles back to normal living. Some backpackers conquer every single countries in the world. That is it. A real man who achieves greatness can not afford to dawdle.

I cut connection with one person after another, because they intrude on my time. And it was significant to feel the world by myself. But after six months of travel, the extraordinary had become the ordinary. I knew how my insides were empty. It was time for change, so I started to search for flights from Windhoek to Japan on Skyscanner. It was similar to investment, for I was very happy when I got the ticket at the lowest price. On the other hand, I was ashamed that I could not buy instantly a first class ticket.

Windhoek looked like European cities. It was fun to visit new towns, where I loved aloneness and became a new person. However, I had been sick of seeing beautiful buildings, fancy restaurants and Westerners taking photographs. I should not have come here, feeling as though to flounder in generalities. It was not necessarily the local life that was important, nor adventure, nor getting out here. 

Back at the hostel I had been looking for the flight again. I had an embarrassing choice of tickets. Since I had come all the way, I would have to have a go at Katutura to see the meaning of life. I tried to whip up my enthusiasm with thought of kapana (grilled meat), but I could not go. I had been traveling a long time, and perhaps my energy was low and my resistance down. It was high time I was making a restart. After all I decided to go back from Cape Town(100,000yen was very cheap). Then I booked the bus to Cape Town. Intercape turned out the best company in Africa.

Near the reception desk in the share longe two young Japanese men were always talking. The cool guy and the short legs man. Both of them were backpackers like me. Sometimes I was eavesdropping. The cool guy was a student at an Australian university and yearned a Chinese girl he met on dating app. “I wanna go out with her, but perhaps she thinks of me as a friend,” he said in a sweet sorrow. He was good looking and extroverted. I’m sorry I am different from you. I do not spend my time huddling in ordinary people talking about dumb things any longer. They would have noticed that I am Japanese, but I was too purposely aloof, eating alone, reading books and working out in my room. I never ever make a friend, regardless of races. That is to say, aloneness is the virtue that had built over the years.

At night I put on a down jacket drinking coffee, the guard stood listening to the wind rustling outside in the leaves, and there were none in the dimly lit lounge. When I seek for the solution of myself—for deliverance and for freedom—I find myself listening to music. My favorite is Robert Miles; Children. It has always been for me a deep consolation. It saturated my very being, which melted in tune into a world. I have had an aesthetic sense, unlike ordinary people in harmony who breathed stuffy air that causes to die. Kurt Cobain died alone in a beautiful world. I can not die simply because I must attain to perfection.

The morning, at breakfast, I enjoyed the fresh taste of tomato on a loaf of bread. A male staff carried the bowls, talking to one white woman after another with a fatuous smile. I finished and put my plates in the sink and then I noticed the male staff looking down on me. “You have to wash them clean,” he said icily. How dare you speak to me like this. You are just serving breakfast, cleaning the rooms, and doing the laundry, all day long. Don’t you know the women does not go down to your level? You had better try to hit on the bitch who follows any man.

After checking out, I stayed in the lounge; the bus departs at three thirty. Behind me I overheard a voice saying in Japanese: “The problem is how to maintain the relationship with Mari-chan after returning to Japan.” Turning back, I saw a young Japanese man talking with someone on his PC. The debate was going on. “Where does Yuri- chan live? I like Yuri-chan too, she is cute.” His round face and lazy body leaned over. He had black bobbed hair. Then this Japanese Busu (it means ugly monster) had named about ten woman, seriously comparing and carefully analyzing. Display yourself in the light! Not wishing to be distracted from an article I was now reading of The Wall Street Journal, I moved another area, where a football match was on TV.

There was the guard sitting across from me, leaning back in the sofa. He had watched the match and after a few minutes had made some light-hearted remark. As I felt the beauty of football when he put to me some question, something about Japan, I brushed him off somewhat coldly—it must be that all Japanese are alike in something. I do not eat sushi or ramen every day.
I found myself recalling the impact the players had had. Roberto Carlos’s free kick, and Zidane roulette. Each had its glory and its beauty, and it was truly art.

I went shopping to prepare for the long bus journey. And I came back after one and a half hours. “I think about meeting Rie-chan in Nairobi. Rie-chan is waiting for me to come.” This desperate fool has been arguing about women for three or four hours, which perhaps had made me sick with weary nausea. I was sure such bitches could not care less about him at all. If he chased after them, they would build the walls against him. I wished he would go to Kabukicho, where pretty whores has been awaiting him. They would never know a woman likes a man who likes being a man.

September 20, 2023

The evening I arrived at Fawlty Towers in Livingstone. When the staff opened the door in my room, a plump young woman sat up on her lower bunk, guffawing on her phone. Her belongings scattered on the floor. I hate vulgar woman. Ugly. As soon as I put my backpacks on the floor, I went out of the room. The shared lounge was sultry and in a chair a young Japanese man fiddled with his phone. He had heavy sunburned skin. Stupid. I never burn my skin because I am no longer blue. I want to be white. And gold.

After shopping in Shoprite, I came back to my room. Then quite suddenly a middled-aged Russian woman, approaching, spoke to me. “Don’t drink in the room. Don’t eat food in the room. Do you understand?” What the hell? “If you use your phone, go outside. No alcohol! No snack!” she went back to her bunk and closed the curtain. A fan faced toward her. She deserves to be single for life. I thought.

I headed to the kitchen to put food and water in the refrigerator. Near the front of its area, a Japanese man and woman stood talking. Ordinary Japanese. There was sense of decency in their conversation, so I wanted to talk to them, however, and went quietly past them. 

When I came from the kitchen, the door of my room was locked. I gave a sigh and turned back. The Russian woman with grim face wandered around the shared lounge, keeping her eyes out for me. “The door is closed,” I said to her. “You locked the door,” she came to the door and turned its knob. “Shit,” she knocked it. No response. “I’ll fetch the key at the reception,” she said and stumped out, forced by rage. I followed her and said: “I’ll go instead of you.” She ignored me.

I woke up often in the middle of the night, although that plump woman was silent. The room was hot and dry. I moved slowly out of the room after what seemed a long time. I trudged off toward the shower stalls and took off my clothes. Cold water felt so good that I became fully awake. And then I put on shorts and hoodie, went out of the building and into gray morning.

In the courtyard I was completely alone, and I walked up toward the kitchen. The birds sing in the cool air that carries their songs. There was a woman cutting something on the board. “Good morning,” I said. “Good morning,” she turned back to me. She was the Japanese woman I saw yesterday, so I switched to Japanese. Her name was Nao. I had the impression that she looked older, but probably we were around the same age. After small talk, she asked. “Do you write a blog? About your journey.” Then I shrank back, for I had written essays of making fun of Japanese. “I’ve just started…this is not something I can show yet,” I said with embarrassment and went out in the courtyard.

I took a turn among tall trees. A slender naked tree had red flowers on the falling leaves. When I took a video at the poolside, I saw Nao taking a photo of the terrace and coming around me. As I talked with her, an Indian man approached Nao. “I am interested in Tanzanian trail. I overheard it. I had worked in Japan for two years,” he said in broken Japanese and joined the conversation. “Are you on Facebook?” he asked her. “Yes,” she began to struggle with her phone. I knew Indian man like Japanese woman, so persistent, that I walked away as if casually.

On that afternoon, I had sat on the sofa in the bar of the hostel, looking up Bolivia on my PC. And in the distance, I noticed Nao speaking to a cool young Japanese guy. I knew she is a social butterfly who talks with me as with the others, mere with the curiosity of her. A cool guy looked bored, and at the same time I remembered how much he enjoyed talking with a young girl in the morning. 

Sure enough, Nao sat down on the sofa in front of me and said: “Sorry to interrupt your work.” “It’s okay, just browsing.” “I went to the waterfall at noon, but I felt sick and was about to get heat stroke.” “Oh, you should rest,” I said. “It would be better to do sightseeing in the morning. I learned it in the hot countries, especially in the Middle East.” “I thought so, but I feel somewhat better now after a little rest in my room.’’ “Good, good,” I said. “By the way, did you get any good postcards of Zambia? Souvenir, what you said in the morning.” “Yes. At the post office. But it would have been cheaper to buy at that falls.” “Did you watch it from Zimbabwe side, too?” “Yes, but…” she tilted her head. “Dry season,” I said.

Next early morning, I met Nao in the kitchen again. She asked, “If you don’t mind, could we exchange contacts?” I was reluctant to do that, but asked, “Line?” “I was not used to Line, but I’ll try.” I sent a message: “Please be careful of heatstroke.” “I can’t receive it,” she was confused. “Would you like to have breakfast together?” “Sure,” I blurted out.

She stopped at the terrace. “Look, look. This skirt I bought yesterday.” I would have to say something, and said, “Nice.” She pinched it, pulled, smiled and said. “I suppose it’s a little long.” I managed a smile, and after ordering, we sat at a table.

“Today, I was going to Botswana,” I said. “Every one had short stays, come and go.” I nodded and fell silent for a moment. “In my case, I had just wanted to watch Victoria Falls. During this journey I’ve been interested in the local life. Livingstone is a tourist spot. It’s not my style,” I said. “I see,” she went on. “I was going to Lusaka tomorrow, so I’ll buy a bus ticket after eating. After Lusaka, via Dubai, I’m going to Thailand, where I’m staying at a little good hotel.” She had had bread crumbs on her lips. “You are busy working, aren’t you?” I asked. “I took a ten day off.” “Oh, it’s very tight. I’m not working. I’m free,” I laughed quietly, judging whether she winced a little. “That’s good,” she said. “Travel with savings?” “Yes. And investment. I have to prepare for New NISA.” Her eyes looked blank but which was as I expected. That seemed to be a little turnoff for her. “Ah, I must be going to buy a ticket,” she said. “I recommend Power Tools. It was the most comfortable bus I had traveled in Africa (Ethiopia, Tanzania, Malawi, and Zambia).” “Power Tools?” I hold out its photo on my phone. “It was the best, at least in Africa, but would be by far the worst in Japan. This is Africa to the backbone, not Japan.” “I’ve understood. Thank you very much for good information. I’ll buy it exactly there,” she was pleased.

As I went back to my room, there was Nao talking with a young Japanese man with round glasses. When I walked past them, I heard her saying: “Do you write a blog about your journey? If so, please tell me.” “No, I don’t.”

After checking out I had walked to the taxi stand. It occurred to me that I left Nao behind without a word of farewell. She was somewhat better than a bitch who likes touching her hand to any man. I felt a little mean pain, so I did not even text by Line.

It was only after I waited for two hours that the shared taxi was nearly full. I had sat on the passengers seat. “When do you leave?” I asked the taxi driver. He was small and gray-haired, perhaps in his mid-fifty. “She is still  shopping in Shoprite,” he said. The passengers sighed heavily. “She is coming,” the driver suddenly said. Through the window, I could see the stocky woman with a yellow plastic bag getting into the back seat. I heard her muttering to the others, and then someone patted me on the shoulder. I turned back. “Do you have a charging cable?” the stocky woman asked me. “What type?” she showed me her phone and battery. “Sorry, I don’t have this type.” “Why?” Frowning, she mumbled something I could not hear and asked, “Are you Chinese?” “No. Japanese.” “You look like China.” “If you think so, could be.”

It is forty-two miles to Kazungula Border. It was impossible to enter Botswana in the morning. I was thinking of Nao. I would never meet her. I got on my phone—it would be too late to text—and ate a doughnut and slept.

We rumbled up and down on the sandy road, parallel to the highway that connected to the border. I said to the driver. “I’d like to go to the border.” “Yes! We go to the border,” the stocky woman said loudly from the back seat. The driver had mumbled something vaguely diplomatic. The taxi pulled up in a shanty town of Kazungula and two passengers got off. Then I looked at small stalls selling sweets and clothes through the windshield. The stocky woman had been so pissed at the taxi driver, however, and I did not know what they are disputing about.

After a while, the taxi pulled out on the road, turned left and into the dead end between the sand cliffs. “If you go to the border, pay twenty per person,”the taxi driver said. I could never imagine this small older man resorted to a dirty trick. “What?” the stocky woman asked. “Who do you think you are? You have to go to the border. We don’t pay. Fuck yourself,” she talked fast and furious. “You have to say the first,” I interrupted. “Yes, right,” the stocky woman agreed. “Go to the border,” I commanded. The car did not move. “Go.” I said inflexibly. “Dirty.”

The small man went back the way he had driven before. And on the highway there was an intersection, where you can choose a course to Namibia or Zimbabwe, or to Botswana. The taxi pulled up beside the road two kilometers before Kazungula Border. We got off without a word. A stocky woman said to me: “If you wanna pula, you’d better exchange here.” “Thank you,” I said. A huge transport truck stood on the roadside. There is Botswana just over Zambezi River. The sun was overhead. The bridge showed white. At the intersection four or five guys huddled against a railing, so I approached them. “Can I get Botswana pula?” I gave a man Zambia bills and he tried to hand several coins to me. So tiresome, I said, “It’s okay. Return the money.” I stood amid the smirks and the sniggers: somewhat reluctantly he began to count the bills.

I had walked on the Kazungula bridge. Few cars went by on the highway, but the transport trucks rattled and banged by at intervals. When I turned back, no one was there. I saw ahead of me in the distance stocky woman and her friend walking briskly. I crossed the border, getting the stamps, past the stationary taxis. The border guard stopped me. “How are you?” “Thank you, good,” I feigned imperturbability. “The sun is hot. Taxi is over there,” he gestured toward a taxi behind me. “I like walking. My hotel is very near,” I smiled. “Oh, good exercise. Welcome to Botswana!” he extended his arms. “Good luck.”

I walked down again past a gas station, and past the mall toward Elephant Trail Guesthouse. The long concrete road shone under the sun. And I came into the deserted path. The trees thinned out, but there were a few signs of human habitation. A voice seemed to come from far away. “Hello.” Three children was waving. I hold up my arm with my thumb up. After an hour of steady walking, I threw my backpacks in the green grass. Stretching my back, I sat on the ground, took the bottle, and drank water.

The path had brought me out onto a rutted road. I stared hopelessly straight ahead, along the brush-lined road that grew gradually steeper and steeper. I had regretted not buying food and water at that mall, because I had never seen a single grocery shop ever since. Over the hill, the road was flat. From a house a woman yelled. “How are you? Where are you going?” “Elephant Trail.” “Go straight along the road.” “Thank you very much.” “I do hope you enjoy Botswana!” I raised my arm in a gesture of goodwill. After crossing the border it seemed to me that people were open and friendly.

At the reception of the guest house, I said, a little proudly. “I walked from the border. It was a long walk.” I was pleased to able to do six miles with my backpacks. “Crazy. Why didn’t you use a taxi?”asked a pleasant young woman. “Walking, drinking water, which makes me feel alive,” I put on my bags on the couch. “Can I get water?” “No, but we have beer.” It was funny that there was no water bottle in the rural area of some African countries.

I followed behind a staff into a house and climbed the narrow, steep stairs, which squeaked restlessly on steps, and this perhaps caused me to hesitate. When I enter a room, I was startled. “I know her, met in Livingstone. The same route.” On the bed lay the Russian woman in Pajamas, chilling out and grinning at me. Then suddenly she removed expression on her face. “This room is only for women,” she said in a steady voice, as though to hate softness. “Yes, yes. I’ll go another room.” We moved to the next room. There were two half-naked bodies sleeping on the beds. Laziness is a sin. I thought. Only ignorant men were lazy—and somehow criminal. 

I began to prepare for a shower and, going slowly down the steps of the stairs, I was afraid the creaking noise might upset her. But then, as I was investigating the shower stalls, I passed by the Russian woman with a mysterious smile. When I came back to the room, an older man sat on his bed against the wall. His hair was a grizzled gray, hie eyes inward, his chest fuzzed with tangles of white hair. Stomach was flabby. After a while, his mouse opened for a word, and remained open. “If you wanna use charging points,” he said lamely. “you see,” turning, he pointed at the wall on his bed. I moved closer and said. “Thank you, sir.” I looked secretly at his old eyes for some response. Then he said: “I came from South Africa.” he got on his feet and walked quietly up to the window. “That’s mine.” There was one black bicycle with bags. “I am going to Europe.” “By bike?” It was not Trek nor Bianchi nor Specialized. It was just a rickety bicycle. “Yes,” he said in a gentle voice. I try to do everything I need, but would not do that. “I’m sixty,” he muttered. 

After an awkward silence I slipped out of my room, going downstairs. There was no one behind the reception desk. I was wandering across the deserted lobby, waiting to pay for accommodation. Behind me I heard a step, and I turned back. The Russian woman was emerging from outside, as I stood looking at the safari information on the blackboard. “The sunset is very beautiful.” I cringed, for I had never heard her speak in such a tone. “Tomorrow I’m going to join this tour,” she pointed at Sunset tour. “But it needs at least three.” I said nothing—memories stabbed me. “Very cheep,” she smiled. “I’m just thinking.” And I remained silent. “It’s no problem, if you don’t want to. It’s up to you,” she said. Then a moving figure caught our eyes. That older man seemed to draw closer. His body was as straight as that of me. She told him the same. “Okay, I’ll go,” he spoke definitely. Then they had been talking slowly and aimlessly for a long time.

September 19, 2023

I emerged from Lusaka Backpackers and went out into the morning light. It was a strange time—an extension of the middle of the night. When I arrived here at one o’clock in the night, I could see nothing in pitch-blackness. Now the sun was in the gap of the big trees. I had been walking along the large white houses. A woman sat cutting pineapples, alone in the shade under the tree. I was hungry—I ate nothing but biscuits yesterday. I knew Lusaka was a big city, so I headed to the most nearest mall, Levy Shopping Mall. Along the road, there were purple-green trees and pedestrians walked past. I had always been wondering about this tree since I saw it in Tanzania and it looked like Japanese cherry blossom colored by an evil spirit. I thought Sakura was fragile as if from some distant memory. It would be gone within two weeks. Perhaps my father could know this beautiful tree. At last I got around to using Google Lens app. 

Trees color in Spring

Old blood in “Jacaranda”

I always wondered

What it meant of Africa

Calmness but toughness

Jacaranda fascinated me while several young men spread clothes to passing cars in the center of the road. As I approached Levy Mall, I was greeted by a sign of pizza on the huge billboard, and a young man in a Nike jersey running. I felt like I was in America. Inside the mall I saw stylish young men walking on the large clean floor. In Hungry Lion young women enjoyed talking and whispering and eating. These were simple, peaceful people. At the same time, I hated to be a bore about these, and there had been a complication. Perhaps because of such convenience, you can get anything as if to shop at Aeons Mall in Japan, so I went straight away to Pick n Pay, not seeing the tenant shops at all.

On the other hand, I was curious and pleased, for I found a scrupulously clean salad bar. I had been craving for healthy food and there were plenty of choices—boiled eggs and boiled squash and cheese and beens, and fresh sliced cabbage. Besides, it was a reasonable price. I thought I would take out a salad and eat pool side at Lusaka Backpackers, then in the evening I would order a big steak and beer watching a football match at its bar. And tomorrow morning I would better leave Lusaka with good feeling. I had plan and the first thing I had to do was buy a ticket to Livingstone.

I went out of the mall. People walking along the pavement in front of stores seemed to be well off, the cars neatly parked. And it was the first time I saw a bookstore in Africa. I walked toward the intersection a hundred yards, and then crossed it. Before long, I could sense a new tension in the air. I looked along to the bus terminal and noticed garbage in a long ditch. Strange older men sat on the bench under the tree. As I waked past Hungry Lion, the three young men was coming this way with light steps, blasting hip-hop from a phone. “Hello, Chinese,” said one of them. His necklace was bling.

After a while, I walked by men in shabby clothes wondering aimlessly on the mound of dirt. Some stopped to look at me, while others followed closely behind. On the other side of the road, cloud of steam rising up from chicken on the wires, locals sat on the ground in a gathering.

Around the bus terminal there were buses coming and going. A crowd of men swarmed about the stationary buses. Once I stepped into this area, mighty guys came from all directions with vigorous sprit. The atmosphere was radically different from any other developing countries. “Where are you going?”a tall, rangy young man was closed to me. “Livingstone, tomorrow,” I said. “Okay, come along,” he strangely exhilarated. I ignored, walking on. He stuck close to me. When I increased my speed, he stood in front of me, and so I dodged him trotting away. There were dozens of bus companies ranged in front. It was difficult to find the sign of Power tools. “China,” one voice after another echoed. Staring at anything, I had been too scared that I might be robbed of my possessions.

“I introduce the good company,” the tall man said. “It’s okay,” I said bluntly. Many guys hovered about me, looking at me. I quickly walked around looking for the sign while he kept close to me. “Don’t follow me,”I said angrily and was at a loss as to where to go. He did not speak at all, but stayed. “Don’t follow me. I don’t buy from you!” I shouted and then broke into a run to give him the slip in the crowd. In no time he chased me. At the bus terminal in Myanmar, the touts followed me endlessly and surrounded me, and as I had almost lost control, however, I was not scared because they had slowness of middle-aged man, but this beast was exceptional. I stopped, pivoted on my foot and ran on. In the end the tall man stood blocking me. Around and around I moved, “Help me,” I said helplessly at a few man. “This guy been following me.” He had said something to them in their language.

“Go away,” I said fiercely. I walked away. he followed me. There was no way out. “Okay, explain to me, the bus detail.” “Of course, come,” the tall man gestured toward a dusty booth, where an older man in ragged checkered shirt sat dozing off. He had white frizzle hair. The tall man said, “Just sign here, your name,” he pointed at the page of the notebook, gleefully trying to get me to hold a pen. “Sorry, please wait. I just want to be thinking.” He barely heard me, soliciting the dozing older man for a kick back, and almost immediately I ran off, yelling, “Please tell me Power tools.” “Power tools!” “Power tools!” One man started to lead me without saying a word. I could see three persons in yellow uniform standing straight in a booth. “I’ll buy a ticket to Livingstone,” I said, somewhat in relief. Turning back, that son of a bitch was no longer there. 

September 18, 2023

I got accustomed to this noise. As the bus stopped at the shanty town, the street sellers banged its windows with their fists. Drinks and snacks, vegetables and fruits, toys and sunglasses—came into sight. And the aisle that was too narrow to pass each other was thronged with the vendors. Who would buy such a pair of sunglasses that was lame? The drinks are kept at outside temperature. And drink bottles are not necessarily full, sometimes two-thirds. However I had managed of late to have a weak bladder, but which I had been trying to ignore by not drinking.

When I looked out the window, the wind raised a cloud of dust. The market bustled with street vendors and people. On the corner in the town there was a shady ATM at no bank—I had recognized well—I had decided to withdraw money at a bank in Lusaka.

I realized the bus had come to a halt on the way. It was hot in the bus. No wind comes in through the windows. No air conditioning in the bus. Most buses in African countries do not have it—just crazy. I pulled my foodie over my head to shut out the sun. I stopped thinking about anything and began to doze off in the seat. I did not go quite to sleep, for I remained aware of the engine falling off, and of the half of the passengers standing outside. There was something wrong with the bus. 

A woman was on the phone. “The bus broke down,” she sighed. I could not help eavesdropping. “Maybe another one is coming from Malawi. But it would be stuck at the border, so I don’t know when it’ll coming.” You’ve got to be kidding. I have never experienced a bus breakdown since I was born. 

I ate a biscuit, now conscious of how hungry I had been. And then I sipped tepid water out of a bottle that was one-third full. From the window of the bus, I saw tents now, and small houses, reed-roofed and huddled. It was pretty lonesome place here. I rose listlessly from my seat and stared at passengers. An old lady sitting behind my seat was talking. Her black clothes was a high moral tone. But I had felt faint disgust at her carelessness—now and again she put her hand over the top of my backrest, mechanically holding my hairs which protruded from a bun, and so when I moved my head I felt a little bit pinch of my scalp.

“Excuse me,”I asked this lady after all. “The bus is broken?” “Yes. I’m going to catch a vehicle. It’s a waste of time. Maybe no refund,”she spoke firmly. “Do you know when another bus come?” “I suppose it’ll be coming sometime. But, I don’t know… If you in a hurry, hitchhike,”she said. I had never done it, so I was getting nervous. “I have no Zambian kwacha, though I do US dollars. I have all the time in the world. If another one comes, I’ll wait and climb on. If not, I’ll god damn near die, because I can’t buy food and drink,” I said with a slight exaggeration. “I have biscuits if you want,” she said. “How much kwacha do you need?” she zipped her purse. I was taken aback to see a bundle of bills in it; she was obviously lady of fashion. “I’ll have to get them, but…” I opened Currency app on my phone. “What is it you do want? If you want kwacha, you have US, so I give you,”she rushed me. On the other hand, I was afraid to lose US dollars I stashed just in case, but there was no guarantee that the bus would come. “Thank you for your kind, please let me think about how much I need. After estimating, I’ll tell you.” I said. “Yes. Don’t make it long,”she said harshly, brushing past me.

The motor roared up for a moment. As I made my way down the aisle, three men in blue work uniforms knelt around the driver seat that was off. I stepped down off the bus, not expecting nonprofessionals to fix the bus.

There were stretches of dead grass. I edged through the people in the shade of the bus. The sun was hot. From somewhere far off came the sounds of horses’ hooves plodding on the highway. In that direction I could see a few gray shacks alone. I stopped and turned about and watched. It was difficult to tell where a wilderness of grass ended. I felt anxious when I imagined all hours in the middle of nowhere. At last I went back to the bus to protect myself from the sun.

The driver seat had been out of place and the three workman stood on the other side of the highway. Near the door a dozen bottles of orange juice. Everyone out here always had some kind of juice. You should drink water. I thought. Anyway I sat down heavily in my seat and tried to remain calm. All things considered, I could probably not buy food and water, even if I got Zambian kwacha.

I heard quick knockings on the window beside me, from which the old lady with a grim look yelled at me,“If you want kwacha, exchange. I’ll be going pretty soon.” It had a sound of authority. My hand went quickly into the envelops in my bags, took a fifty dollar bill and darted out of the bus. I showed her the rate on my phone; I received Zambian kwacha, counted it, and said, “Okay, thank you very much. It’s going to be a relief.” “ Welcome,” she said, rode on the car and vanished.

I had leaned back in my seat to avoid wasted motion and dissipated energy. As two plump young women were about to sit in their seat, I had suddenly straightened. They had the plastic bags and took out of the bottles of juice and snacks from them. I got to my feet and moved a bit closer to them. “Excuse me,”I said. “Where did you buy those?” They were a little taken aback as if she did not look good to Asian. “Go straight this road. Approximately two hundred meters. You can see a white house on your right side,” one plump woman said sullenly. “Did they sell water there?” “I don’t know.” Then the plump woman gulped down apple juice.

The concrete highway was edged with the tangled, broken, tall grass. I waded through them in the direction she said, looking into the distance ahead, along the road, along the solitary road. Among the dead trees a few obscure houses, quite isolated, were visible on the right. I had doubted the grocery shop could be in such a deserted place, that somewhat reluctantly I moved off the trail toward an unpainted house. At first glance it appeared to be an old private house. It’s door was open. I entered slowly the house without causing someone to turn toward me. 

Near the open door a few men stood, and my eyes wandered into the room; I was relieved to see drinks and snacks behind the counter. A man had bought apple and orange juice. “Do you have water or some refreshments like doughnut?” I asked an old woman, who went to the shelves with feeble slowness—and then rummaged in. “No. This is everything we have.” “Do you have anything cold to drink?” “Sorry, no.” I thought it was much better than nothing. “I want that”—I pointed to biscuits and orange juice—“and that”—and energy drink.

I handed her fifty and she put five on the counter. And although I was not very used to Zambian kwacha, I noticed there was something wrong. “I paid fifty,” I said with emphasis. The old woman had mixed them in scattered bills on the counter. “No,” her anger came through to her face. The two men on either side of me laughed, and they explained to her to give me the exact change, but she pretended to be confused. One snatched the money from her, counted it, and handed me the change. And this crazy old bitch was muttering furiously.

The dusk came. In the gray sky the sun became less red. The bus was empty now. Dozens of people crowded thickly along the highway. The men were silent and did not move often—a few bicycles whisked near. The two woman walked with their baby and kids. I stood well back where no one could talk to me—“Are you Japanese?” “Yes.” “I have Japanese friends…”—These annoyed me. Why was it anyone’s business?

“The bus is coming,”someone called. I looked where a man was pointing and saw beyond the crowd a bus slowing to a halt. Turning quickly, I went to my backpacks on the grass and lifted them. The people thronged around the bus door, muttering some pleasantly. The bus was a little smaller and distinctly dirtier than the former one, so that the aisle were filled with passengers sitting on buckets and sucks. The kids on the floor. I sat with my backpack on my lap.

The bus was moving at a good speed on the lumpy road, and a heavy silence fell in the bus. It was damn near two hundred fifty miles to Lusaka. I looked around the bus, wondering if they were ever hungry, for I had never seen them eat anything but snacks. They had preserved their calmness, regardless of age or sex. There was something admirable about their toughness. 

It was quite dark outside. The bus pulled to the side of the road and parked. “Just five minutes, break,” the driver said. “Hurry.” I saw a crowd of the passengers were getting up from their seats. Many pushed past stepping over stuff, and I was squeezed by. After stepping down off the bus, I followed the people, who went into a relatively clean shop. The smell of roasting chicken came wafting toward me. And I felt highly elated to see the water bottles, and—in a refrigerator, where a young woman stood in the bright light. “How much?” “Three,”she said with a small smile. So cheap I was even more pleased.

After that, I backed in my seat, exchanging pleasant talk with the man in his mid-fifties. The cold water had sufficed my entire body. The bus driver built up the speed and the rattle increased. I had clutched the backrest in front of me. “Is Lusaka danger at night? If I walked two kilometer alone.” “You should sleep in the bus until dawn.” “I guess the bus will arrive until midnight.” “I don’t know, because there will be many pumps on the road.” Indeed, the bus slowed down only when there was the road pump.

It was almost pitch-black. No traffic light. No street lamp. I could not see parsons at all in the blackness.

“What are you doing tomorrow?” said a woman’s voice.

“I was going to work… I’m tired. I’ll sleep all day. I do nothing.”

September 15, 2023

In the morning I went to Mzuzu bus station to go to Lilongwe. The bus staff told me that the bus was going to leave soon. After I bought the ticket from him I boarded the bus. It was empty of people. Then the next moment, I thought I might be worst accommodated. All the seats were devilishly painful and some backrests leaned slightly forward. I advanced down the bus, trying to find a seat that was not dirty. I sat down in one seat, and as I pressed the button, this backrest remained standing in the neutral position.

The sun was elusive with an overcast sky while I sat waiting. However, there was no sign of some one getting on, so I made my way down the aisle and got off. I asked a man wandering about the bus. “Are you sure the bus will leave?” “Yes. It’s not full yet,” he said. I gave a sigh and boarded again in case of its departure. I had been waiting, an hour, then I strolled around the town and went back to the bus by the other route. Then I had seen the situation before me. A mediocre man looked out of the window. And a ragged middle-aged woman, lying on the seats, had been of a sort of sleep or unconsciousness… I regretted having checked out of the lodge in the early morning, remembering about the epic days and all that. What a loss these would be. At any rate, I had to be patient. Just waiting. That’s all.

I was sitting in the seat with my eyes closed, without thinking, so as not to be oppressed with some apprehension. Then, sometimes eating, sometimes reading, and sometimes dazing. It was not until the late evening that the bus departed. I saw the bus was very full and prosperous. Then I supposed perhaps we could reach Lilongwe in the middle of the night, and It occurred to me I should stay in the bus until dawn. Before long, however, I realized there was a chance to get on the bus to Lusaka, by skipping Lilongwe. I had been thinking it all over while the bus was moving at a good speed in the night. All the weariness of the day—the long waiting time, the disruption over my schedule, the unconformable seats—seemed to come over me and I felt myself going into sleep and slept.

I was awakened by two babies crying and the passengers played with their phone, whose lights contributed to the late night. All over the bus, people never minded that now, except for me. The bus had stopped in the middle of nowhere; the crowd of passengers began to go off. I followed them. The bus headlights made the earth lucent, so that people forced their way into thickets. When I came back to the bus, in the darkness I saw a mother suckling her baby.

The driver built up the speed as we approached Lilongwe. And ahead, the feeble lights of the town made no impression in the blackness. It was three thirty when the bus arrived at the bus station. I half awakened and watched around. The passengers were fast asleep, some people snoring. Living my backpacks in the bus, I edged through the aisle and went down. The bus driver slept too. I could see a few dirty men going into what looked like a restroom. After taking a shit, I carried the water from the outside tub, sent it down the toilet.

I walked along the road a hundred yards, wary and watchful—and then stopped and listened into the stillness. I inspected the skyline in the direction, a huge cloud of diaphanous white. Now I walked slowly to the right of the road and turned down a side street, “Devil street” every local call it. The smoke hung low to the ground, and a few figures wondered. There were the bars on the both sides of it. African music turned low the way it is when no one is listening. A woman grilled the meat and salted them on the wire. The fire flared and dropped. Inside a bar two or three men stood gnawing something on one plate. In the groom ahead of me some drunks loafed around. I put my hands in my pockets and walked quickly away toward the end of the street that turned abruptly. There was one bus on the ruined concrete, and in letters on its sides—ZAMBIA-MARAWI.

In front of the bus, I could see the signs—KOBS BUS SERVICES, TIME: 05:30 BOARDING TIME. It was such good timing. No one moved in the night. I was about to went back to the way. Then foot steps from Devil street, and the two men approached, “You want a ticket to Lusaka?” asked a man. “Yes. How much?” “80,000 kwacha.” “Expensive,”I walked away, but they stuck to me. “I don’t have enough money.” “Let’s go to the ATM, I’ll show you.” “I do know where it is. I’ll come back at five, then buy the ticket, okay?”I asked softly. “Yes, sir. We’re around here,”I gave them the slip in the darkness, and went back into that creepy street. Several young men stood huddled together by a bar. Seeing I was being noticed, and I opened my chest, swaggering through the street.

For a while I walked along the street, only to see a darkness in the dark. As I had expected, across from the bus terminal there was a gas station with a row of ATMs. Having considered how much money I needed, I operated the panel, but I could not figure out, so that the time was up; it went back to the first screen. I waited and waited… I felt that I had blundered on some magic.

It sucks. I screwed up. I wandered in the gas station, bewildered, needing help. It was four twenty in the morning. I should really have abandoned the card because I had the other cards. But I had a foolish notion I should be there in case the ATM disgorged my card. There was no one around me; the moment was right. I ran and fetched my backpacks from the bus.

The dawn was coming. The inhabitants of the town came to life—the gas station staff cleaning up and the folks standing in a line in front of the ATM. I had told some people about my situation, but in the end had no choice but to go to the bank myself. The morning was advancing rapidly. I put on RAY-Ban sunglasses and a mask to cover my face, and by pulling my foodie over my head. Tired and cowardly, I trudged off toward Crown lodge that I had googled.

Despite the early morning, the owner of the lodge showed me to my room. Once the door had closed behind him, I collapsed fully clothed onto the bed. After a few minutes I decided there was little point in worrying so much until after a sleep.

I awakened at ten and headed for the bank in a hurry. There was a winding line of a good many people by the bank. While waiting my turn, I doubted I could take back my card because today was Saturday. I was feeling all the more frustrated that I waited a long time, over an hour and a half. However, I was relieved a female staff treated me with warmth and led me to the boss’s room. At some impressive desk a man sat eating a doughnut. He was about fifty. “Excuse me, sir”—I was now animated in expectation—“The ATM ate my card.” “Where?” “That gas station. Ah…near the bus station!” “I know. What kind of card? Visa or…” “Master,”I said, then he shook his head sadly. “It was not good,”he frowned, as though he had known the machine trouble. “If you could meet the officer of the headquarters, you could ask about your card. Sorry, this is a branch. There’s nothing I can do. But it’s not far, ten minutes walk. Cross the bridge, walk down M1 road, it’s on the right side.” The boss, using my phone, pointed to the location on Google Maps.

By the time I came up to the headquarters, I was feeling tired and disheartened. Its door was closed. I peeked through the glass door to see who was inside. A small guard lounged slowly around the bank. “Closed?” I asked him. “Yes, until Monday.” “ATM swallowed my card. Tomorrow, I’m going to Zambia. Could you work out?” “It’s difficult…business hours is from Monday…” Then he walked toward the door—I followed him—only to make sure that the door was locked.

It was more than two miles that I walked on. Damn hot day and no wind. M1 road was crowded now. On the sidewalk of the bridge, a women sold on dirty white sheets odds and ends: bottles, dish sponges, a pile of toothbrushes and used clothes. The men in white tank tops and black pants sold old junk: socks, sandals, colorful rags like scarf. In the river by the housing construction site, men wash, and a young men brought in a bucket a water. I walked, threading my way among folks, cars, and motorcycles, to my lodge.

I passed a Airtel section, and along a long narrow ditch—the dirt pile and a mass of derelicts. The traffic grew sparse, and before long I spotted the locals up ahead, sitting on the ground in the shade of a crumbling wall. I rushed along the edge of the sandy side road, head down, so that no one could see my face. Nevertheless, women voices could be heard chattering away: “China!” “China!” Then the women let out high-pitched laugh. I could see the vulgar women in the absolute shade beside junk. 

“Fucking dumb bitches. Rubbish.”

The dusty side road opened at left angles to the market, where people sold grilled meat and fish, and vegetables. The smell of burned dust was in the air. A ragged boy with bare feet ran at me and hold out his hand, “China! Money! Ah?” Suddenly I lost my temper, “What is Ah? Shut up, brat, go to hell!” I glared angrily at him, but he was so persistent. “Get lost, scum!” I said all these words in Japanese. Always. Everyday. China, China, China! This boy left a smell of vengeance on me, and calling out, he went quickly toward a poor bunch of bastards, into a huddle. I saw them looking at me, giving me a feeling that I might be hunted. In no time I speeded my walk without turning back. 

I wanted to leave this town. In my lodge I lay down on the bed with my hand crossed under my head—pondering —figuring. At seven, I went out in the square and past the gatekeeper. “Sir, where are you going?” His voice had insinuation that it was unsafe at night. “I’m hungry. I just want to eat something,” I said. “Let’s go with me. You shouldn’t walk alone. The bad guys hang around.” He had gone through the gate. The road was straight, revealing an expanse of a gray nervous clouds before us. We walked—a little way—and fell into a silence. The road ahead was virtually empty. 

I changed my mind and asked him. “Do you know where the nearest bar is?” “Yes, sir,” he turned abruptly, and went back the way. “Come.” In a second he walked close to a brick wall and slipped into the narrow gap like a shadow. Slowing to a thoughtful pace, beyond the wall, I could see an obscure house—so much so that I stopped and stared at anything. Just as I went away, he appeared from the gap. “Come. Don’t worry.” Afraid to stop the flow, I followed awkwardly into the opening.

Troubling at something foreign, I stepped into the entrance. Dust particle floated by an candlelight, spreading out in the air and a phone on the counter glowed in the darkness. I saw that behind the counter stood a specter of a woman. Black Label on the shelf. She looked taciturn and unfeeling, but there was a certain decency in her appearance. I sat at a small round table. My eyes traveled from one corner to another. In one corner two men finished playing cards. Another man in overalls, resting his elbow on the counter, stood by the taciturn woman. Just all of a sudden he ballooned his cheeks, lifted his head up and gulped down a big coke. He abruptly put the empty bin with a thump on the counter and disappeared perhaps the way he thought he was super cool. She stood looking blankly straight ahead, and then she opened a beer with a dour expression.

September 13, 2023

The lodge was made of cedar, with a shake roof, and encircled by the tall trees. I heard wind rattling on the roof. When I awoke to the barking dogs, I felt oddly at peace. I opened the door that led onto the sprawling front porch overlooking the little camp site. A slight chill air was fresh, and the bamboo rustling in the breeze. That had brought me a sense of calm and well-being. Not that I have a heart to feel—it is like being warped in the time being—but today I could experience such a sensation, nevertheless. 

I took a turn in the camp site. Somewhere far away a dog barked, the weeds whispering my steps so clear the two dogs noticed me. From between the bamboo, birds was warbling in beautiful voices. There was no one there, just the two dogs silently playing together. 

Thanks to Azu, whom I met at Iringa, Tanzania, I enjoyed Mzoozoozoo Lodge for the three days. As I was getting ready to check out I left the door open. A brown dog peered uneasily at me a little distance away, wagging his tail and whining. I did not know why he looked so sad because I do not like street dogs. Barking. Biting. Then I will be covered with blood. So much so that I got the rabies vaccine before this long journey.

I had read a closely written note about Malawi that Azu gave me. The note said Soul Rebel Lodge in Nkhata Bay just opened half a year ago. “I love hidden lodge.” To which she had said: “I highly recommend. You will surely like it.” I was aware that the brown dog walked away whining.

I went over to the iron wall of the Lodge. The guard opened the door, which squeaked on its hinges, simultaneously, three dogs ran out. “Oh no,” I said, a little confused. “It’s okay, see you again, sir,” he walked off. The three dog—black, white and brown—came trotting up the road, mouthes open, tongues lolling. Their tails curled, and they wagged pleasantly in the air. I started to walk : the three followed behind me. Every now and then the dogs ran a little ahead, lured by something. The black dog went off the road, sniffing, and moved around the dilapidated area : a row of humble huts stood on each side of the street.

When I stopped, each stopped too, waiting for me to start a walk. On the red earth people sat selling the vegetables and garments. I could see people look at us—one Chinaman with three dogs which caused the people round about to laugh. I trudged along toward the bus station, the sky in a frump of gray clouds. One guy came closed to me and led me to the taxi for Nkhata Bay. And, consequently, this guy seemed to get a kickback.

Two dogs wandered about litter on the red dust. I had left the passenger door open under which the brown dog lay. Occasionally he came mounting and sniffing me. “Your dogs?” two young women broke into a smile in the back seat. “No,” I grinned. “Yesterday I went to the restaurant, walked three miles with them. Once I stepped into its garden, this brown dog led me into the restaurant. Though I ate fancy pasta, he waited quietly beside me. He is wise. After that, we went back to my hostel together.” “They like you!” “Ah, I think so,”I smirked.

The taxi driver started the car and pulled into the road. I looked through the window at the brown galloping full speed, and he soon overtook us. It was a little hard to see owing to the deep cracked windshields, however, my eyes followed the brown. He made his zigzag way through the vehicles far ahead. And then he stopped in the middle of the intersection. He was careful with restless eyes staring at cars, motorbikes and bicycles. As we approached him, the driver beside me blew his horn ; he was disoriented, dodging helplessly and run off to the left.

As we moved on in the mountain, I recalled my dog Andy—I had quite forgotten about his existence since I started living alone. I had once gone back to my parents’ house on my DragStar during a winter holiday. From then on, I had heard say that every time Andy saw motorcycles, he barked excitedly at them, despite the long years of my absence. He was dead ten years or so ago… The car rolled down the mountain into the town and Lake Malawi came into view.

In Nkhata Bay, the stalls sold many fish, and at that time of the morning, when the market place filled with tomatoes and casually strolling people. On the sidewalk, the traditional women marched in single file, with their great load on their heads. It was on a little hill that I came across a restaurant with Rastafarian color sign—ONE LOVE CAFE. It has an art gallery: carvings and handcrafts. Once inside I could overlook the lake on the porch. The owner welcomed me and served coffee—the fishing boats were coming into the harbor—I ate Nshima, fish and tomatoes on a plate.

Soul Rebel Lodge had the superb terrace with view across to the lake, great for chilling and reading in the gentle wind. There were two houses against which the long sea beat, as if to float in the sea, and I had never seen such a clean and spacious dorm, with two shower stalls. I turned the water on a little and held my finders in the stream. Hot water right in the pipes. At night, the sea coming closer, I drank a beer on the sofa, the music drifting through the air and soft light seeping out of the town.

The light of the dawn slanted through the windows when I awakened. Birds sang gently. I got up and put on my black down jacket. I saw an elderly couple fidgeting beneath blankets on an upper bunk. A woman spoke under her breath, the two of them giggling, half childlike. They had gray hairs. I eased to the open door and overlooked the lake. Water lapped the coast—it made a rhythm. Last night it was so loud, that I was not sleeping nice. That was what Azu’s husband had said: “Every thing was okay…but…”

I was going down several stone steps. The air was cool here, and a white man stood alone on the rocks watching the sea. I stepped onto the small cove at low tide. The sea and birds sang. From far off, I could see a black figure paddling a canoe on the lake, and into the sun. No other ones were in sight. There was a manly beauty in nature. It was the very virtue that had built such an unique over the years.

After a while, as I edged to the wooden table where westerners prefer to chill, I saw the sun, still on its morning ascent, growing softly between the trees. I stood at the table. There had a clear view across the lake all the way to the horizon. I stared at an intense orange, the effect was of a single, but with a variety of outlines. The gap of sky was a pale and a blue now. Wishing my father could be here, I observed how sky on the water has such a coloration. He is a true man in the art. An epic no one reachs at he writes.

August 21, 2023

At Julius Nyerere Airport there was a taxi ticket counter—the price list on the window, its shutter closed. I was wandering in, confused, needing a means of transportation. “Taxi?” I ignored the small-middle-aged man. I never heard anything good about taxi driver in Dar es Salaam. I went to the information center. “Please tell me a safety taxi,” I asked a woman, who pointed at the small man, whom I had ignored a moment ago. I inspected him oddly : he wore beige pants and a yellow vest as an airport employee, and an ID hung on his chest.

The small man wore a faint smile, and approaching me. “Taxi?” he said again. I distrusted the taxi driver entirely, but I had no choice but to ask him.“How much, to the city?” “Forty dollars,” he said. “No, I’m not stupid, know the average,”I walked off. “Wait. How much do you want to go?” “Thirty five Shillings,” I said. “Forty five.” “Forty.” “Come.”

He began to walk away from me and went out the door in the airport, and I followed him. The sun was hot, palm trees waving. I walked past a group of taxi drivers in a jolly good time, passing rows of neatly parked cars. At the end of the parking area there was a stationary vehicle. “Get in that car,” he said. For a moment I hesitated uncertainly. I supposed it was not kind of taxi, yet at the same time had felt as exhausted as ever—I had been having trouble keeping up with me from Addis Ababa Bole Airport—it was tempting to rest the hostel and simply got into the back seat with my backpacks.

“I go to L&J Modern Backpackers. Do you know?” I opened the booking.com app in my phone, its address displayed, and my hand held out for the small man to take. “Yes, I know,” he said, and then started the engine.

Julius K. Nyerere Rd is the main road—we moved on eastward, where there was my hostel by the beach. I drank water in little sips and there was no talk in the taxi : I do not to intend to talk with a kind of person who tries to rip you off. Then gradually, I got bored and I opened the MAPS.ME app in my phone, sometimes gazing at where we were going. Just in case. 

The driver drove straight on. I was in a kind of daze and looked out blankly. At an intersection, he turned to the left and there was more traffic. I wondered about his going northward, and then checked the map on my phone while we moved slowly behind the vehicles. However, tiredness warped my judgment. Detour, I guessed.

At the next intersection, the driver turned to the left again and speeded up for a while. The sandy ground under the highway were almost shade as walls. Against the fences were piles of empty bottles and cans, and rusty ruins lying on the ground. We moved on the road, shooting the dust ahead of us, making it spread out—I had been growing restless and uneasy. Then leaning forward, I grasped the headrest of the driver’s seat. “Where are we going, sir?” I asked. ”My stay is on the east coast. Near the beach. Very opposite.” I showed him the map on my phone. “I wanna go here,” I pointed out my destination. He glanced at it and then turned the steering wheel to the right. “It’s not good, incorrect…” he murmured. “This time of the day, traffic is busy.”

I leaned right back in my seat, not knowing what else to do. It was hot and dry inside. I was so jittery but tried to come to my senses, and I drank a little more water in the bottle, and then—suddenly I entered a quite different atmosphere. The road was straight and along the sand. There were fewer people wandering about the shacks built of scrap lumber and pieces of tin. If I were alone here, what on earth could I be doing out there? Quite certain, I could not have seen a shop to buy food or drinks.

The small man was talking with someone on his phone. I did not even know what he said because of the local language. I felt the creeping fear—perplexities, danger, and the end of my journey. I caught hold of the back of the driver’s seat. “Where are you going?” I interrupted, and then hardly had he hung up his phone when he called again.

What is he up to? I knew the taxi robberies from the internet—the taxi driver stop somewhere, and from both sides his fellows get into the back seat and sat down. I find myself caught between the two. When one man hit me, another robs me of money ; and force me to withdraw up to the daily limit at ATM.

In no time I slipped all my money and cards into my security porch underneath my t-shirt, without reflecting my stealthy movement in the mirror. “You are going in the north,”my voice trembled. “Yes, sir,” the small man replied coolly. Dread began to gather rapidly in my mind, and out of dread came panic. This small man, a complete liar. Fucking the son of a bitch! “Stopping! I’m going down.” I reached for the doorknob but the car moved on. “Wait, wait,”said the small man. At a big intersection, he turned to the left and into the outskirts. “Just a minutes, we’ll arrive there.” “No, drop me off, I have no money. Are you really a taxi driver?” I muttered, panting. “Who are you?” “Yes, yes. I been taxi driver for long. Been to L&J,” he said. “That’s enough. Go back to the Airport, please,” I whined.

The motorcycles overtaking us viciously, a tuktuk whizzing by the other way. I could catch one kind of shop or another, encircled by the iron bars—a woman outside handed bills into the bars, as if a prison guard gave a prisoner something. Obviously, the sight that greeted me showed signs of crime : robbery or burglary. 

I immediately wanted to go back to Japan, flashing back through the times I had considered where to stay in Dar es Salaam. I had been reading the blog that recommended L&J Modern Backpackers, examining the hostels, assessing their difference. If I stay here, then… If stay there, then… All of this was working in my head in an instant. I had never expected that. Oh shit!

“Excuse me, sir. L&J has two locations?” I asked, trying not to sound afraid. “Yes, we are going to Kinondoni,” the driver answered, and then pulled the car to the side of a street. “You just got here. Look out, this is L&J.” I took a little peek outside—the gray walls—and nothing but the gray walls. “Do you have a reservation?” he asked. “Yes, yes,” I said lamely. “You can see… ,” he said when I looked over out of the window. “Let me take you,” he said. And I got out of the car, carrying my backpacks. “ Look,” he pointed to the small square board : L&J BACKPACKERS KINONDONI. I looked around restlessly, covered in confusion : the gray wall fences was completely encircled the hostel as if in the jail. “Go inside. Check. See if you have a reservation.” The small man rang the doorbell instead of me. There was no response and he knocked on the door. 

After a while a woman opened the door and let me us. We followed her. Everything was so different then—under the thatched roof a half-naked white man chilled out, a few Asians wondering about a big palm tree. I was bemused by this transformation, and at the same time a huge embarrassment engulfed me—I guessed how hard I was pressing this small man.

The yellow sunlight fell over the ground, and we entered a room. At the reception desk the owner sat in front of the PC. A chinaman sat near by, working on his. “Excuse me,” I said. “My name is K. I’d like to confirm my reservation.” The owner looked at its screen. “Two nights?” he asked. “Yes,” I relieved. And then I turned to the taxi driver, who stood in the back of the room. “Sorry. I’d made a mistake,” I said, feeling real shame. “You were right. Thank you very much.” I handed him forty Shillings. “No, no,” he smirked. “It was very very far. Fifty.” “No, you said forty,” I said fiercely. Mumbling to himself, he walked off looking crestfallen.

It was near midnight when we came back to the campsite. The steam spurted around the cook. The lean man said. “Just a second, the cook is preparing your supper. Sit down there, make your comfortable.” We sat down heavily on the ground by the land cruiser. In the dark the cook set a big kettle on a board instead of a table. The lean man brought a flashlight, shone its beam and fixed it somewhere. “A nice stew,” we three said. Then pasta and roast pork were served. I dug my spoon into the stew, and then I gulped down the roast pork. “Ah, I wish to drink beer,” Jun said with contentment ; Tsubaki handed him a bottle of water.

“We leave at three,” the lean man said. He dumped the sleeping mats on the rocky ground and laid out them one by one. I drag a mat, got away from the couple and put my backpack beside it. First I took off my hoodie, and then washed my arms and face with bottled water to keep me cool. Then I sat on the mat, brushed my teeth the way I peered into my reflection on the camera app in my phone, and I took off my sweaty jeans and lay down on my back on the mat for a while.

For the first time in my life, I sleep outside with only one mat, however, and I was surprised at how casual my feeling was. The wind was gone, the mat comfortable. Looking at the sky I heard the couple giggling softly to themselves, gradually fading away. It was the very night the gray clouds had hung in puffs. I had been fascinated by the meandering currents of my mind, and maybe I had grew patience, trying to know the world, in the end, I was glad I was here.

I heard stealthy steps from around the land cruiser. The movement stopped, and the car rasped on my sensibility. I took my phone—2:50AM. Ugh. That was dumb…I will have to get up. When I saw the lean man loading up the land cruiser, I closed my eyes and pretended to be asleep. The couple was whispering together, so I squinted my eyes nearly closed and studied them—they were standing with their backpacks on the mats that were stuck together. “Wake up!’’ The lean man clapped his hands cheerfully. No way… 

The lean man got into the driver’s seat and turned on the ignition. I sat beside him and the couple and the cook in the back seat. The land cruiser lumbered away, into the broken rocks. We were silent while the land cruiser battered along, full of clashings. I did hold the the highest hand grip of the window side, listening to the pounding land cruiser—a variation of rhythm—and dropping off to sleep.

We jumped in the land cruiser at random, through the broken rocks. I half awakened, and slept again as though to faint with anaemia, and my head had been tried to stand upright as I was constantly on the verge of crashing into the driver’s shoulder. The night still drifted, and ahead were a jagged broken peak. The lean man built up his speed, afraid of nothing. Up the steep slope, jumping and falling and putting a earth quake in the rocks. “African massage,”the lean man said, looking straight ahead, proudly—we were silent and did not give a laugh.

We coasted down the long sweep to the floor of the salt lake. “Oh, it looks like Uyuni,” I said. The road ran parallel to the lake, the dawn was coming, but it was slow and gray. “Looks that way,” Tsubaki said. “Amazing.” “Sunrise is really nice, but it’s cloudy,” the lean man said to Tsubaki. “It’s the worst day,” she smiled tentatively, compelled to talk. “It’s a beautiful place.” “Enjoy it. Assale Lake.”

There was an expanse of gray land before me. I was staring emptily at the lake. Nothing but emptiness. All of my things far behind. “Take photos,” the lean man pulled to the side of road and parked. Holding my iPhone I scrambled down from the car with excitement.

I stood, silent and awestruck, before its vastness. I wanted to be alone in the wilderness. During the Danakil tour I had been a little tense around the Japanese couple. I ran on the salty crust, at low tide, the emptiness and cool air moving in around me. I was always running, always alone. The wind blew fiercely across the field as I stopped at the tide line. Some distance away, at the center of the lake, was the land cruiser, by which the lean man had been taking photos of the couple.

I ran further away, where nobody would see me, and I knew it was illogical to fill an emptiness. But I had known a long time that being completely alone is a feeling so obsessive it blur, nobody even able tell. I would have to do life alone.

The mounting gray clouds, gaining ground, settled low and blocking the sun. No other land cruisers were in sight as I walked along the tide line. Finally alone, I squatted on my hams and touched the salt crust, and no hint of life in it. Gradually, the tide was receding. From the lake side I inspected the unsystematic line, easing back. 

I wished I could be here a little longer, however, and I was always ruled by time. On the horizon the persons dotted around a car. Of course I knew Japanese is punctual. Then at last I sprinted to the car, and scrambled into the land cruiser and we moved on.

The surface of the lake was like polygonal patterns, and its color changed over time—gray, then sand, and rusty brown. I had been absorbed in looking out the window. “We’re going to walk to the small village for breakfast,” the lean man said. “Approximately thirty minutes.” The land cruiser pulled up at the brown lake, and then I jumped down and looked around.

There was the mysterious phenomenon, profound even. As if God made humans shit neatly over the decades in the way to make the form of polygon. There was a road that parted the brown land, so that you can walk on the surface of the dry ground. The couple did not appear interested and they walked into the road. I was taking a movie with amusement ; and broke into a gallop and followed them.

Then suddenly the ground all changed. I was surprised—why can we be in two places at once? The sign said “DALLOL, AFARI.” I was not sure where we were going to now, but there was nobody I wanted ask. I had been bound to watch their behavior based on the concept of Japanese harmony, ready to anticipate. Jun never spoke to me. Tsubaki changed her attitude, depending on the situation. Besides I needed to keep a certain distance gingerly from the couple. Naturally I was frustrated at my efforts adding up to nothing.

In the gray sky a sun appeared, a dim yellow circle that gave little light. The lean man led with springy steps. I had to move quickly against a strong pull toward this geological drama I would never see. I felt like we had landed on an asteroid while a local young man blasted African music from his phone ahead of me. The surface of the earth crusted, a hard crust, and erosion had exposed bedrock : breaks or joints.

We edged gradually on outcrop of rocks ; I knew myself we have got a way to go before realizing again I am no good at a group. I had all the while hiked absent-mindedly, lest my brain might misfire : “If I do X, they do Y, then Z…then…” As if it snowballed at perfection and I could be suddenly subjected to natural chaos. However, I was now so controlled that I had become disoriented. “K-san,” a voice said from further. Turning, I saw Tsubaki standing on the hill and looked down on my place. “Come!” 

The view was stunning; the colorful matrix built up—I paused—incredible. It was beyond my expectations. I had assumed the blogger edited its photos to make them look attractive. I ascended the rise to Tsubaki. “It’s so much more vivid than I thought!” I said. “Yeah,”she agreed. I had climbed up and down—absorbed in fantasy.  When I was close to a yellow salt concretion, this girl said with some authority : “You shouldn’t go over there, he warned us.” I suddenly felt like I was treated as a child who always got lost. Why this girl speaking to me like this? I began to feel resentful at having been underestimated. What has come over her? What is on your mind? A certain aura emanated from the emerald green spot.

It was five hours later that the land cruiser arrived. The sky was still overcast. “We can go, anyway,” I spoked to Jun to get along fine with him. And the lean man carried dozens of 1.5 liter bottles of water in his arms. It occurred to me we must be at Semera airport by 4p.m. tomorrow. I walked by instinct toward Tsubaki and said, “I do remind him to come back to Addis tomorrow.” “Yes, yes, of course,”she said.

Pride, I supposed—I was the oldest in three. Like I was going to be the dependable person. I edged gradually in the lean man. “We been waiting for you more than five hours. What’s that all about?” I asked. “I’d joined another tour,” he answered, moving along the car, and Tsubaki went to him. “I don’t know what you mean. Come back the money,” she said with the fierceness of a woman trying to control herself. “No, I was so busy earlier on, guiding a tour group,” he said, loading the various things into the land cruiser. “We must go back to the airport, Semera, tomorrow,” Tsubaki demanded. “By 4pm at least,” I added. “Can you change the flight?” he asked casually. “No, we must go back to Addis,” I said with emphasis. Jun wandered about the car. “Can we go that volcano?” I asked nervously. “Of course, of course,” he said humbly.

I sat beside the lean man, our tour driver. And the couple and the cook in the back seat. “I’m very sorry to bother you,’’said the lean man sincerely. “If there’s blame, it’s not my blame,” he went on. “I was in Semera when my boss called me.” He still did not turn on the ignition. “Perhaps he is not responsible,” Tsubaki whispered in Japanese. Turning to her, I nodded twice. “Are you okay? That’s too hard—we probably hardly sleep at the volcano,’’ my head turned to him. “No, problem,”he grinned. “You are strong,” I said. “Let’s go!” he started the engine.

“Would you like the AC? Or open the windows?”the driver asked. “AC!” I said without thinking about the couple, because the land cruiser became unbearably hot. After a few moments, I found myself in a comfortable position: cool air hit directly on my wet body.

The long concrete path across the county—completely devoid of traffic other than us—over the yellow lands and the gray lands, and across the desert into empty landscape. Sometimes a single car, sometimes many camel caravans loading up with salt to market. Very interesting. I have been taking so many photos and videos of this geological drama. But it was essential every once in a while to bring my iPhone closer to the AC(in Aqaba, Jordan it’s battery had once swelled due to high temperature).

“We just get the whole thing over,” the lean man said. “ I do hope you’re enjoying Ethiopia. Enjoy, enjoy.” “Oh, yes,” Tsubaki said with a smile. “Everything’s fine, we must enjoy.” “Welcome to Ethiopia,” he slightly bow, placing his right hand on his left chest. “Thank you, thank you,” said the couple. Tsubaki raising her camera and snapping through the window. Jun whispering into her ear. “If you know nice viewpoints, please tell us,” I added. “Yes, I’ll pull up the car at the great viewpoints, I’ll show you.”

We drove into the little town over the dusty road. From time to time the lean man slowed the car and stopped it. He sat in his seat and gave a man a fist bump out of the window. Without instruction there was a quick exchange: money and little stuff wrapped in white paper, and he pulled away down the road.  I had not asked about them.

Then after a while the land cruiser crawled into a long abandoned village, and pulled up at a corrugated iron shack as if we had arrived somewhere. When we got out of the car, the sky clouded over. As I looked around the curious children crowded close, two ragged girl seemed to strike poses toward me. There were a dozen shacks made from wooden sticks, covered with black sheets that was patched. The other structures in the area were a combination of black sheets and corrugated metal, and on the wooden bed slat in no wall house lay a young man talking on his cell phone.

The reason for stopping was to acquire the stuff: fuel, tools, and spare tire. And so on and so on. The lean man asked me to switch the seats with the cook: they probably wanted to converse with each other. I sat beside Tsubaki and Jun beside her. The lean man got into the car and he started the engine.

The land cruiser moved on into the evening. And the road disappeared in the distance ahead. We started to climb up on rocks and and stones of the hill, twisting, losing the way sometimes. In the darkness we rumbled along, popping in the car. Holding the highest hand grip I was half slept on the back seat. And then gradually my brain became aware of what was slightly touching my shoulder. “No, you are in the wrong direction,”I thought to myself. Tsubaki’s head tilted toward me. I was getting something screwy. I knew that Ethiopia was the first stop on their long journey. The headlights swung around and outlined dark figures inside the car. I glanced quickly over. Tsubaki slept heavily. Jun kept his eyes straight ahead.

The land cruiser moved up the long hill, through the broken, rotten rock. It rumbled up the last rise and lumbered over the ground; we had come to a halt against a concrete tool shed. Then down from the car I climbed, weary and sleepy, and stretched stiff body. The thudding of the men’s feet on the stones sounded in the darkness. 

I was getting ready to climb at my iPhone light. The lean man and the cook began to unload the truck—water, a few pots to cook and wash in, and ingredients for dinner, and sleeping mats. The couple was wearing their headlamps on their hats. I was momentarily taken back, moreover, that I had failed to notice that earlier. Then I asked the lean man, “Can I borrow a headlamp?” “No,” he said sternly. “You don’t have?” “No,” I replied, but his mind seemed to be elsewhere as though it was none his business. 

The lean man in red t-shirt started to walk without saying. Tsubaki and Jun and I followed him. “Excuse me, Jun-san, I think I would follow your light,” I said. “All right,” Jun glanced back to me. At first I had walked at a steady pace, enjoying the flat gravel field as if in a cave. There was a crunch of feet that merged with silence. In my excitement, I started up the rocks, all my former weariness gone. I saw the couple climbing, stride to stride, and said, “You’re very used to climbing.” “We had often gone mountain climbing together, especially in Japan,” Jun said, looking ahead. Tsubaki, smiling at him, started to talk about memories of their climbing. 

After a while, we became silent, for the path was steep and there were quite a lot of rocks. I did my best to follow close behind him. As we ascended the rocky path at our own pace, Jun increased his speed and before long I could sense I was in danger of slipping out of control. My eyes followed a blob of yellowish light on the rocks that Jun’s headlight cast. I kept up with him, following just two step or three behind. His light jiggled over the way and I stumbled in the darkness, so much so that I had hardly reduced the distance between him and me. The hot air folded over my tight face. As I could see nothing but faint light in the distance, I stumbled forward, painfully sometimes. Jun had never turned back as if there were none. The unattractive girl had mouthed the lines of the anime characters. The lean man vanished altogether. Maybe my expression asked for help, but I stepped forward like nothing had happened before they underestimate me. Nothing, nothing ever upset me—I am the type of man who can run every single morning, regardless of rain, snowfall, typhoon, and “humiliation.”

When I think I could I fall down, I stopped uneasily, took my iPhone from my pocket and used its light to watch my step. And I followed the way that Jun had climbed. The sky was a dull black, and no star visible. Gradually, however, from the distance came a crackling sound. The smell of burned dust, and of sulfur was in the air, so that I put on a mask over my nose and mouth. The more I walked, the hotter it got. The distant yelling of Tsubaki could be sounded. The lean man, seeing I was late, stood on the top of the hill against the background of a little fire.

From the summit, the flames was all the more evident. “Eruption,”the lean man said. “Eruption?” the couple looked at each other. “Hunka(噴火)”I said in Japanese. “You see that-there?”the lean man pointed out the sights. I saw the glow of a flashlight, and suddenly the hot breath came up to us, with the volcanic ash smells on it, and with the dust particles. My eyes watered and turning back against it. 

With a hollow sound, a large red flame and a smoke rose up. The fire flared and dropped. I stared at them for a long, long time, into a deeply tranquil mood. Tears dripped from the corner of my red eyes. Erta Ale erupting and erupting. The lean man called out something from behind. When I thought he was appealing to us to go down as the night air contracted the flame, the fire was leaping redder and redder.